Paris Journal 2007

Sign my guestbook. View my guestbook.                      Previous    Next                 Paris Journal 2007 Home

 

 

From Le Parisien, July 10, 2007.

 

This bar/restaurant on a boat near Notre Dame has a
daily magic show!

 

The weather here is still cool and damp.  Pigeons group
together on asphalt roofs in the Champ de Mars to
stay warm.

 

An amusement area in the Champ de Mars.

Tuesday, July 10

 

A couple days ago, Bob Spencer signed my guestbook with a question about whether or not we have ever visited the Cité de la Musique at the south end of the Parc de la Villette.  I wrote to him that yes, we had done that years ago, but that is not my favorite part of Paris.  I prefer the older, more charming architecture.

 

It is not the fault of la Villette that it hosts modern architecture.  La Villette is the site of a former slaughterhouse area.  So it was never the most beautiful part of Paris.

 

Well, today’s newspaper tells me that there is even more to it than that.

 

One of President Mitterand’s last projects was to have designed and constructed a complete music center – with a grand hall, a music museum, and a conservatory of music, at the Parc de la Villette.  The architect hired for the job was Christian de Portzamparc.  The complex was opened in 1995.  In 1994, the architect won the equivalent of the Nobel Prize in architecture (the Pritzker-Price) for the design of the conservatory.

 

Now he is in trouble for that work.  The courts decided yesterday that Portzamparc is responsible for the malfunctions of this building.  The investigations and deliberations have taken twelve years!  Now Portzamparc’s office has been ordered to pay the Ministry of Culture 3M€ (three million euros!).  This is the cost of the repairs, plus interest, plus the return of the architect’s fee.

 

The problems became apparent almost immediately.  In 1995, the grand glass covering (verrière) had to be replaced because it was in danger of falling.  Then someone realized that the doors to the fire extinguishers did not work.  Some exterior tiles, while esthetically pleasing, proved to be too fragile.  The wood floors in the recital rooms would not support the weight of a piano.  And on, and on.

 

The Cité that Bob was asking about is actually a separate building, housing the music museum.  A quick visit to the museum’s web site today informs me that the museum is closing for “refitting,” from June 25 to September 10.  From September 11 to March 7, 2008, only the 17th and 18th Century sections will be open.  The full re-opening of the museum is expected on March 8, 2008.

 

I cannot tell if the real reason for this “refitting” relates to architectural defects.  Who knows.  But it does seem that 2007 is a bit soon for a building built in 1994/95 to need to be “refitted.”

 

We had a nice dinner last night with California friends Alan and Deb, at that wonderful place, Le Tire Bouchon (62, rue des Entrepreneurs, phone 01-40-59-09-27).  The roasted peach dessert was divine!  Alan tells me I have overrated the nearby Italian place, Pizza Della Piazza.  But I think I recommended them for veal, not for pizza.  I’ll have to clarify that.

 

The chef, Laurent Houry, came out to chat with us at the end of the evening.  It turns out that he is a big fan of Carl Hiassen, whose books are evidently available in French.  (Laurent speaks no English, although his wife, Isabelle, is fluent in English.)  I told them (the Californians and Chef Laurent) that the Florida of Carl Hiassen is the real Florida.  I think this is true because Carl has a great way of taking those aspects of south Florida that are weird and unique, and making them blindingly apparent.  If Carl ever visits Paris, he should dine at Le Tire Bouchon.  He’ll have a wonderful dinner in a small, very private restaurant, and his presence will delight the chef.

 

 

 

Previous    Next

 

Sign my guestbook. View my guestbook.