Paris Journal 2007

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Statue of Liberty at one end of the Allée des Cygnes.

 

A jogger stretches above the homeless people’s tents at
one end of the Allée des Cygnes.

 

People boarding the Capitaine Fracasse for a dinner cruise
on the Seine.

 

 

 

Saturday, July 14

 

Happy Bastille Day!

 

I spent the morning watching the parade on TV.  This is the first parade under the new president, and it was very different because of him.  First, he had military contingents from each of the 26 other EU countries lead the parade with all of their assorted flags.  A boys’ choir sang with the men’s choir at the beginning and the end of the parade.  Sarkozy, at one point, ordered the vehicle carrying him to the platform to stop.  He got out and energetically went over to the crowd on one side of the Champs, shook a lot of hands, kissed a child, and then quickly went over to the other side, shook more hands, smiled a lot, and freaked out his security people.

 

The weather seems to be cooperating for the holiday weekend.  It is warm now, and finally it is not raining.

 

We had a very, very pleasant visit with Ohio friends ,Susan and her husband, Jeff, and their little boy, Alex, who is seven years old going on 14.  He is such a great kid – very capable of entertaining himself and not one bit obnoxious.  We adults started with drinks and hors d’oeuvres in our living room, with all the balcony doors open due to the fine weather.  Then Tom and I walked the three of them over to Le Tipaza (150 avenue Emile Zola, 15th arr., telephone 01-45-79-22-25), the North African restaurant that we recommend, where they’d already made a reservation.

 

Tom and I had a lovely walk on the Allée des Cygnes.

 

Susan, Jeff, and Alex came back over after their delicious dinner and our walk, and we enjoyed more of the evening out on the balcony.  We talked about the fact that Ohio State’s new president will be Gordon Gee, who used to be president several years ago.  Has any other university ever done that?  Asked a former president to come back?  (Tom and Susan worked together in the same department at Ohio State – Susan is still there.  Jeff is an Ohio politician who is about to leave politics and reinvent himself.  Alex is the proud owner of webkinz, which I learned about for the first time last night.)

 

On our walk, we saw some of the homeless people’s tents near the statue of Liberty at one end of the Allée. 

 

At the other end, we saw a prosperous looking mostly young crowd waiting to board the Capitaine Fracasse, one of those dinner-cruise boats. 

 

 

Our routine is about to change as Dan and Mary will arrive this evening. 

Tomorrow, we’ll have another apartment for our clan, close to the Champ de Mars. 

 

Tom will probably stop working so much on his textbook, and we’ll be out and about doing more things, I suspect.

 

Dan and Mary flew into Brussels yesterday because it was significantly less expensive to fly there than to Paris.  They went to Bruges for the night because they wanted to see that old city.  We saw it on one of the first days of the Tour de France, on TV, before the Tour reached France. 

 

Like last year, people continue to stop us – especially me – on the street to ask for directions.  We must look like we know what we are doing, or at least where we are.  On our second day here, I went out to buy newspapers and a couple young men stopped me to ask where to find the rue de Tournus.  I was not yet into the groove of the neighborhood.  I knew I knew the name, but I just could not think where that little street is.  A very small street indeed, it connects the rue du Theatre with the rue Foundary, traversing the avenue Emile Zola, not far from where the young men stopped me.  I’m afraid I disappointed them.  I just could not yet get my internal map working.

 

Then a well-dressed aging little woman in a bouffant bottle-black hairdo stopped me on the crowded rue du Commerce the other day, asking for chocolate.  I am sure she really meant to ask for the location of the nearest chocolate shop on that trendy shopping street.   She just kept saying, “Chocolat, chocolat,” a sure sign of a real chocoholic, like my mother.

 

I can remember a chocolate shop there years ago, but it has been replaced by a trendy clothing store, of course.  Again, I had to disappoint her.  There is no chocolate shop on the rue de Commerce, and I cannot think of one nearby.  There is one across from the church on rue des Entrepreneurs, but it doesn’t look too good, and that was quite a hike from where the little woman stopped me.  She looked very disappointed when I could not provide the requested information.

 

The rue du Commerce has become so trendy that I find myself dressing up a bit just to go out there to buy newspapers!  I must be turning into a parisienne.  Yesterday, I bought soap and lotion at l’Occitane en Provence before I bought newspapers.  I believe l’Occitane is not really a French company.  It is just another formula retail store occupying the rue du Commerce.

 

Then a man driving a car up the rue de la Croix Nivert stopped Tom and me as we walked toward the Square St. Lambert the other day.  He, of course, wanted to know where the rue du Commerce could be found.  He probably needs to buy nice, new expensive men’s shoes.  We pointed the way down the rue des Entrepreneurs, but of course that is a one-way street in the wrong direction.  It is hard for we pedestrians to keep this in mind.  He smiled at our realization that he could not go that way and he said “A gauche.  D’accord.  Merci.”  Nice as could be.  We told him what he needed to know, anyway.

 

Young women who are selling tickets or promoting local businesses stop me all the time.  I just tell them, in almost perfect French, that I’m American and I don’t speak French very well.  They always smile and say “merci,” and I have successfully avoided the sales pitch!

 

I also have the satisfaction of knowing that at least they thought I looked like a parisienne!  Maybe I also look like an easy sales target . . . .

 

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