Paris Journal 2009 – Barbara Joy Cooley                  Home: barbarajoycooley.com

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Like many big cities, Paris has big prices.  The butcher down the street, for example, charges a whopping 11 euros per kilo for a roasted chicken.  So a chicken that weighs only about 4.5 pounds is going to cost you over 22 euros, or over $30.

 

So I don’t buy my roasted chickens from the butcher down the street.  Instead, I buy them at Ed (pronouced eh-day), the deep-discount grocery owned by Carrefour, for a little over 4 euros, or about $5.75.  That’s more like what I’m used to paying.

 

A wonderful thing about Paris is that there are discount groceries like Ed and Champion (even Monoprix is sort-of discount) all over the city, even in the middle of the city.

 

That’s not true in Manhattan.  And I think it isn’t true in London and most other world-class big cities.

 

We make breakfast and lunch at home in the apartment, because we are at home, working at the computers during the day.  So even though we eat out just about every evening, we do need to do some weekly grocery shopping.

 

It is very convenient, even though we don’t have a car.  We have a little duffle-bag size cart on wheels that we roll down the street to Ed.  It isn’t even a block away.  If we go at about 3PM, after working, the store is not crowded and the re-stocking has been completed.  It is almost peaceful.

 

In the store, we use the little cart as our shopping cart, emptying it at the cashier, and filling it back up again as the groceries are rung up.

 

Prices are wonderfully low, for a big city.  At Ed, we basically get everything we need for a week for about 50 euros, or $70, not including wine.  There are a few items, like high-quality mayonnaise and chocolate that I buy elsewhere, like Monoprix.

 

For wine, I go to the Nicolas store, only a block away, and can get a nice supply for the week for $35 or so.  A freshly baked traditional baguette costs 1.15 euros (or $1.60) at the bakery down the street, but we don’t buy one every day.  We buy a baguette maybe three times a week.

 

There’s an attractive fruit and vegetable store around the corner on the rue du Commerce, but I generally don’t buy there because the food is arranged on sloping tables right out on the sidewalk where large numbers of passersby are talking, coughing, sneezing, etc., all day long.  The shop allows customers to handle the fruit, too.  No matter how much I’d wash the fruit, I’d be concerned about all the exposure it has had to nasty germs. 

 

There is great concern about swine flu expressed in the newspapers here.

 

The fruit and vegetables at Ed are also cheaper.  And they are certainly very, very good.  This year, we bought strawberries and peaches there that were out of this world, they were so good.

 

For lunch, I usually make a salad.  I try to be inventive, and I make my own dressings.  Yesterday, I made a Thai chicken salad with lots of fresh Romaine, cashews, chicken, diced tomato, and a dressing made by mixing Thai dipping sauce and olive oil.  It was exceptionally good.

 

In the evening, we went for a walk on the Allée des Cygnes.  A French woman stopped us to ask for directions.  We answered her questions.  I just love it when that happens!!!

 

Then we called l’Épopée for a dinner reservation, and stopped there on the way home for a 2-hour superb dining experience. 

 

Every time we eat out, we say “merci” many times.  Basically, I say it every time something is served to me.  When plates are removed, I say “merci” again and make some compliment if the dish had been especially good.

 

I say “merci” when I buy things, like the daily newspapers, too.

 

The French are very polite and they always answer me with a French version of “you’re welcome.” 

 

What they say, 99 percent of the time, at least here in Paris, is “de rien” or “du rien.”  Every once in a long while they say “je vous en prie.”

 

Jim H. wrote to say that “de rien” is déclassée, and that it is more correct to say “je vous en prie.”  I checked every dictionary we have, and I don’t find that assertion. 

 

All I know is what I hear, which is “de rien” and “du rien.”  The few times I’ve heard “je vous en prie” have been when I’ve been thanking someone for something beyond the usual.  For example, when I had something laminated at the local print shop and also was given a lot of help making many copies there, I was vociferous in my “merci’s.”  I was then repaid with a “je vous en prie.”  That was nice, I must admit.

 

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Friday, July 17, 2009

 

100_1127.jpg

I don’t mind this kind of cute graffiti because it doesn’t mark gang turf or make implied threats.  However, it does encourage bad graffiti by simply making the statement that graffiti is tolerated here.  (And notice that someone let their little dog provide real dog poop on the sidewalk here.)

 

caillou.jpgL’Église St. Pierre du Gros Caillou, or the Saint Peter of the Large Stone church, on rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th arrondissement.  This plain church stands at the head of the pedestrianized rue Cler.

 

proletariatlamotte.jpg

A plaque declaring that a building on the avenue de la Motte-Picquet was the property of the Future of the Proletariat Civil Society, whose business office is on the rue Notre Dame de Nazareth outside Paris in the 73rd department of France.  “Proletariat” is a word you just don’t see much anymore.