Paris Journal 2015 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com
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“There they are again!” I said to Tom. We’d just entered the Square Dupleix, and I’d spotted the brightly colored tent. Every July, it seems, the Gontelli’s mini-circus sets up in this charming little park, not far from the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower, tucked into a quiet residential neighborhood. We like this little park, which is very much oriented toward families with small children. For the sake of the children, there are many rules in Square Dupleix, and graphic signs illustrate each one.
This means no dogs, not even on leashes. But as Tom pointed out, it is ambiguous. One could interpret it to mean that the leashes are banned, and dogs should run free. We know better, however.
These next two signs I’ve never seen anywhere else: no soccer games, and no feeding of pigeons.
This “no alcohol” sign is one that represents a rule that is violated with impunity in parks throughout the city. Square Dupleix was established in 1921, and named for Joseph-François Dupleix (1697-1763). His father had been a wealthy farmer, who wanted his son to be a merchant. Joseph-François, however, was interested in science, not business. Cleverly, the father sent the son to India on one of the French East India Company’s ships. That spiked Joseph-François’ taste for travel, and he subsequently made several trips to the Americas as well as India. In 1720, he was named an administrator of the Compagnie des Indes (The Indies Company), and he was appointed to the superior council at Pondichery. The father was right; Joseph-François developed an aptitude for business. He rapidly made a fortune by “developing a policy of conquest” in India, according to an expository plaque in the park. I think that means he took advantage of his power and position in order to get rich. His wealth depended on implementation of his public policies. But he also had talent as an administrator. After he was made superintendent of French affairs in Chandernagore, the “town prospered under his administration and grew into great importance,” according to Wikipedia. He married Jeanne Albert, a widow of one of the French East India Company’s councilors. She was helpful to her new husband’s business because of her ties with the local leaders. In 1742, Joseph-François Dupleix became governor general of all of French interests in India. His ambition grew, and he “adopted a style of oriental splendor in his dress and surroundings,” according to Wikipedia. His ambitions worked well for him until they didn’t. In 1754, the French wanted peace with the British, and had to send a special commissioner to India to stop Dupleix. He was forced to return to France, in financial ruin because he had to leave India, and his assets, behind. He died poor, in 1763. His wife preceded him in death, in 1756. They must have missed India terribly. At least Parisians named a little park after him (as well as a street and a metro station). In addition, the French navy has had four ships named for him, including one that is still in commission. The sign in the park points out the obvious: “A double curtain of chestnut trees shade the allée of this French square, equipped with a bandstand where concerts are held from May to September.” The square includes a colorful playground for small children, and of course the entire square is fenced in with wrought iron. After passing through the Square Dupleix, we crossed the Champ de Mars and the avenue de la Bourdonnais (named for a man with whom Dupleix had numerous conflicts and rivalries), we entered the garden of the Musée du Quai Branly. The garden was much more alive with people than the last time we were there. Guards were still posted at the two entrances to the garden. I opened my handbag for the guard to check it, smiled, and said “bonjour.” We sat for a while on smooth granite benches under a trellis made of re-bar and wild roses. We strolled on around the garden, and then started our walk back to the apartment, to watch the Tour de France in the Alps. On the way, we stopped in Vin et Marée. The restaurant had neglected to give us our Lafourchette.com discount last week. I wasn’t going to complain, but I did answer the survey question honestly, when asked if the discount had been applied. I was amazed at the thorough follow-up by Lafourchette.com! I didn’t expect the three emails I received from Sharita, which resulted in the director of the restaurant calling me and leaving me a message. As long as all that follow through had happened, I decided I had to follow through as well. The restaurant director paid me 21 euros in cash, and admonished me to check the tab next time before leaving the restaurant. I stopped myself from telling him that this should not be necessary; Lafourchette.com says the discounts should be applied automatically. I smiled, we said goodbye, and were on our way. The director had to save face, we decided, so we let him get away with being rude, without any snide retorts from us. In the evening, we had a long walk to dinner at Le Beurre Noisette, on the rue Vasco da Gama. It was lovely. The restaurant filled up with locals, entirely. This location is far away from any tourist attraction, I’m happy to say. Our starter course was a shared “marbré” or terrine made from foie gras, chicken, and duck. With it was a fig confiture. That starter course would have been too much for one person. Tom had salmon for his main course, and I ordered pork belly (pictured below) – a small square of delicious pork served with boudin noir – blood sausage – as well as puréed potatoes and a bit of grilled romaine. The blood sausage was wonderful; Tom even had some of it, and he usually won’t touch the stuff.
Tom had a Baba au Rhum for dessert, and I had a few bites of it myself. It was served with St. James rhum agricole from Martinque. I like this Martinique rum even better than the Clement brand. The chef at Le Beurre Noisette is Thierry Blanqui. That is a name I remember from the past, but I can’t quite place it. We selected this restaurant based on the recommendation of Abra Walsh, the daughter of Dick Walsh, a former Sanibel city council member, mayor, and board member of the Committee of the Islands on Sanibel. Dick was a gourmand, and his daughters told heart-warming, amusing stories about what it was like to go grocery shopping with him. I miss Dick Walsh on Sanibel; he passed away some years ago. Thank you, Abra, for the excellent recommendation. I hope you’re having a wonderful time on vacation, wherever you may be. The long walk home was pleasant; temperatures had cooled down into the upper 60s – just right for walking. Just right for Paris. |
Thursday, July 23, 2015
The
Gontellis mini-circus set up in the Square Dupleix.
A
verdant place to rest on granite benches, in the garden of the Musée du Quai Branly.
The
Lavirotte building on avenue Rapp, as seen from the
rue Camou, in front of the American Library.
Missing
cat posters were posted all around the Square Dupleix neighborhood. I sure hope “Petit Chat” is found!
Hibiscus
blooms in the Champ de Mars.
Salmon
and vegetables at Le Beurre Noisette. |
