Paris Journal 2010 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com
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We went out yesterday evening for a walk to Le Granite, knowing full well that the restaurant might be closed for vacation. It was just an excuse to stroll down the leafy avenue Félix Faure. Sure enough, Le Granite was closed up tight. So we retraced our steps, considering a couple of brasseries along the way, but then deciding to go to our “neighborhood pub,” the Commerce Café at the Place du Commerce and rue du Commerce. But then we changed our minds again when we reached rue des Entrepreneurs, deciding to finally give Restaurant Bernard du 15 a try. This is the resto that replaced one of our all-time favorite places, Le Tire Bouchon, when it closed three years ago. In its first couple years, I didn’t want to go to Bernard du 15 because it always seemed to be too empty, and the prices, while not really expensive, are a bit high for experimenting. We passed Roger’s tired and dirty old Corsican place, Le Beau Violet, which is closed for vacation, and the wonderful Restaurant Stéphane Martin, which is also closed for vacation. (If you read French, check out this story about Stéphane Martin.) Two middle eastern restaurants on this street were open, however, as we expected. We noticed that the Place Violet is looking better than ever, having undergone a re-do a year or so ago. It is one of those paved, flowerless squares, with some mature trees and nice benches to sit on. And it faces the castle-like fire department that occupies the former home of Mr. Violet, who was a real estate developer, businessman, and one of the founders of the village of Grenelle, which comprises part of what is now the 15th arrondissement. Finally we reached our destination, 62 rue des Entrepreneurs, at a few minutes past 8PM, finding the Restaurant Bernard du 15 open, with four tables already occupied. Things are looking up for Bernard. To entice new customers, the resto posted a special 17-euro, three-course menu next to the regular menu on the window. The special menu included a choice of either beefsteak tomato with mozzarella and basil or a feuilleté de moules (mussels with sauce in a flaky pastry) as a first course; a filet de l’églefin (haddock) or poulet basquaise (chicken Basque-style) for the main course; and a trio of petit pots de crème pistache or cheese for the final course. At that price, why not? We entered, and were given a nice table with no pretentious questions asked about whether or not we had a reservation. I noticed that on the walls are pictures of colorful, quaint Caribbean towns, so I felt right at home. We were given our menus right away, but then there was something of a delay before the server took our order, because an important couple came into the restaurant. At least, the man was important – you could just tell by the way he was regarded. When he came in, he strolled over to a table of two near us and they all greeted each other heartily. Then the important couple sat at the big round table that could accommodate 6 or 8 people, but was set for two. They’d reserved, and they deserved a big table. Their needs for drinks and hors d’oeuvres were tended to immediately, while Tom and I waited patiently for a full 15 minutes. Finally, we were allowed to order dinner. We each had the 17 euro menu, with the feuilleté, poulet, and pots de crème. The feuilleté arrived after only a few minutes, and it was piping hot. It was delicious, with a creative combo of a white and a light brown sauce that I’m sure had some roux in it. That, plus the very light, flaky pastry, meant that I paid some consequences today, but it was worth it. (Every once in a while, I can consume a little wheat flour; this is the nice difference between an intolerance and an allergy.) I just didn’t want a boring tomato with mozzarella. The chef, Bernard Sellin from Brittany, did a great job with that feuilleté. He knows his mussels. Next came the Basque chicken, which was exactly what I expected: tender, juicy chicken served with a tomato-based sauce that had some chopped peppers, onions, garlic and herbs in it. Next to it was a pyramid-shaped pile of very light, fluffy white rice. Everything was seasoned perfectly. Finally there were three little pots with a creamy pistachio-flavored concoction, the pots de crème pistache, which Tom pronounced as “wicked.” Maybe so, but all the portions were small enough that we didn’t feel at all like we’d overindulged. We delayed our departure because it was raining outside. We ordered a decaf for Tom and a Grand Marnier for me. So then the restaurant knew that we weren’t being cheapskates, simply ordering the bargain menu. The server was extremely complimentary about our French. Somewhere during dinner two very elegant, tall, slender black men had come into the restaurant and went back to see the chef in the kitchen. Obviously, they’re friends. The two men came back to the dining room, sat at the front window table, and were served champagne and Basque chicken – no first course and no dessert – an option that was not on the menu at all. (They were given a second round of champagne and were never presented with a bill to pay for dinner, as far as I could see.) Chef Bernard came out to chat with them very briefly. As the chef was turning to go back to the kitchen, I smiled broadly at him and said good evening, just to let him know that we were enjoying our dinner. He seemed to appreciate that, and he smiled back. At the end of dinner, Chef Bernard came out to sit and talk with the important couple for quite a while. By the time we left, I think there may have been only one other table occupied, besides the important couple. Chef Bernard rose to bid us farewell. We shook hands, thanked him for the delicious dinner, thanked our server, and we went out into the very light drizzle of rain to walk home. We will definitely go back, and we won’t necessarily order the bargain menu next time. Sign
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Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Very
persistent self-seeding flowers growing out of the rooftop across from our
apartment.
Flowers
in the charming Square Henri Collet in the 16th arrondissement.
The
flowers behind the marigolds here remind me of the gaillardias back home in
Florida. Now I’m sure Cynthia can tell
us what these really are.
We
intend to try this Spanish restaurant, Casa
Eusebio, near Le Granite sometime soon.
Fuschia
growing in a window across from Le Granite on rue Durantan. |
