Paris Journal 2013 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com
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Thanks to Cynthia S., I now
know about Lori Hinnant, who writes articles about France for the Associated
Press. Cynthia sent me a link to an
article by Lori about changes in the French restaurant world. It was excellent. And so was Lori’s latest article
about the French government’s “rosy” economic predictions. The New York Times’ journalist who writes about France, Elaine
Sciolino, is too prone to over-generalizations and her writing lacks depth. I prefer the way Lori
Hinnant presents France to us. We tried a different
brasserie for dinner last night; while it was good, it wasn’t great. We expect much more than mediocrity when we
dine in Paris. I liked the décor of the
place very much. And our server did an
excellent job. But the food was a bit
bland, and a little rough around the edges.
The poulet suprême had only
about a teaspoon of lackluster sauce, and the chicken was dry all around the
edges. I suspect that it had been
frozen, pre-prepared. The pomme purée maison that
I’d read about online before we reserved were nowhere to be seen on the
menu. All homemade puréed potatoes had
been replaced by rice. And the rice
was only mediocre. The worst thing about the
place was its manager. He was a
sort-of young man who was full of himself – a chanticleer, a coco-rico, a
preening rooster. Tom said, “Too bad
the place is run by rowdy children.” The food was excruciatingly
slow to arrive at the table. The music
played on the sound system was weird, but mercifully, not loud. Overall, the place was just a slightly
uncomfortable, slightly off, mediocre experience. So the brasserie shall go
unnamed in this journal. The reheating of outsourced
ready-made meals is a frightening trend among French restaurants. It is such a problem that now, many of the
better places make a point of announcing – on their front windows, on their
web sites, on their printed menus – that all their food is made with fresh
ingredients and is prepared on site, in the restaurant’s kitchen. The French National
Assembly recently voted on a law that would require the words “fait maison” (home made, or made
in-house) to be printed next to each item on the menu that is truly made
in-house. The legislation will go on
to the Senat this Fall. There is even harsher
legislations that is promoted by some lawmakers. It would severely restrict the use of the
names “restaurant” and “boulangerie.” Those who don’t measure up would have to
call themselves something else, like “caterer,” according to Lori Hinnant’s
article. This will be an interesting
trend to watch. The war against
culinary mediocrity is being waged in France!
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Tuesday, August 20, 2013
An
interesting business in the 4th arrondissement – a place that
sells books, and wine: La Belle Hortense.
We
stopped in briefly at the Paris historical library on the rue Pavée in the 4th arrondissement the other
day. It is housed in a former stately
home, and actually still has an extensive card catalog! (Photos of the library’s exterior, above,
below, and below, left.)
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