Paris Journal 2007

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From the Saint Vincent de Paul chapel on rue de Sevres,
at the back of the Lazariste’s garden on rue du Cherche
Midi.

 

Detail of the ceiling and a painting in the Saint Vincent de
Paul chapel.  His body is actually on display above the
alter
, but that photo did not work out since I don’t use a
flash in churches.  The head and hands are encased in wax,
of course.

 

Statue in the Saint Vincent de Paul chapel.

 

Window detail in the St. Vincent de Paul chapel.

 

Organ, ceiling and nave of the St. Vincent de Paul chapel.

 

Saturday, September 29

 

We are planning for our departure from Paris tomorrow.  I just tried to reserve a taxi on the Taxis Bleus number, but no cigar.  Due to the taxi drivers’ intermittent strikes, Taxis Bleus is not taking any reservations.  So that caused us to look into other possibilities.  I think the best bet will be for us to roll our suitcases up the boulevard St. Germain to rue Saint Jacques to catch the RER B3 train to Terminal 2 of the Charles de Gaulle airport.  At least this is a real possibility from this neighborhood.  I don’t want to hassle with all the suitcases in and out of the métro and then have to deal with the train.  The RER station is close enough to walk to here, so that’s the plan.

 

It will save us a small pile of money, too.  And perhaps some time.  We haven’t taken this train for some years.  Back then, one had to take a bus from the train to the terminal.  Now, RATP shows the train actually arriving in the base of the terminal.  We shall see.  It sounds too good to be true.

 

But if it does work out, it looks like the taxi drivers just lost a couple annual customers going from the Latin Quarter to the airport.  Tant pis.

 

I have so many photos left to show you that I think I will continue this journal for a little while after our return to Sanibel.  But you never know, life can get to be so busy there.

 

Last night we went out in the never-ending rain to La Bastide Odéon, a restaurant that did not quite make it into my revised restaurant recommendations for this year.  This is only the second time we have been there, and I had a couple questions about it, so I reserved my judgement until now.  It is a bit expensive.  And the pasta dishes are a little strange.  But everything else on the menu seems to be good.  Because it is favorably reviewed I the new Michelin red guide, there are many Americans there.  Even though we made our reservation in French, arrived speaking French, spoke French when we were seated, there was a delay in receiving our menus because the server was waiting for a English menus to be available.  I finally stopped him and asked if I could see the menu (after waiting for 10 minutes or more).  He said to me, in French, “The English menu?”  And I said, “Francais, s’il vous plait.”  Then the menus arrived immediately.

 

I’m confused by menus in English.  I know French cuisine in French, and if I see an English menu, I’m constantly wondering, now what is that dish?  What is it in French?  And I certainly don’t want to order it in English because I fear they won’t understand English well enough and they’ll bring me the wrong thing.

 

I ordered millefeuille aux aubergines (would the English menu say “a thousand leaves of eggplant”?  I don’t think so.  You see why this would be confusing.), and then tête de veau for my main course.  Tom ordered the farm chicken, roasted, and then the millefeuille for dessert.  That’s a different kind of millefeuille altogether, of course.  And I have no idea how they’d translate it on an English menu.  My Dictionnaire Gastronomique says a millefeuille is “a rectangular, layered flaky pastry filled with pastry cream and topped with white icing  -- too many words for a menu item.  And Tom’s was topped with confectioners’ sugar.  He said it was the perfect kind of dessert for a 10-year-old.  He enjoyed it thoroughly.

 

The old building that holds this apartment has been undergoing some improvements lately.  Some stone workers came into the cave (basement) and chopped away at the surface layer of stone and mortar to remove it so the cave can dry out before receiving a new surface.  And the courtyard has been slightly re-arranged to provide a more hidden nook for the garbage cans.  The ancient, huge door into the courtyard was recently restored, too, so the whole effect is quite nice. 

 

We’ll miss this place.  It has been very quiet lately, and that’s amazing given how crazy the neighborhood can be just on the other side of the Saint Sulpice square.  Having the Luxembourg gardens as our neighborhood park is a treat; I can’t think of a more lovely park.

 

We’ve been told that the Hotel Recamier, around the corner from us, will be completely renovated next year.  So if you’re coming for a short visit and you want to stay in this perfect little neighborhood, you might want to check that out. 

 

A few words about the St. Vincent de Paul chapel photos at left:

 

The chapel was built from 1826-27.  The reliques of the saint were placed there in 1830.  The chapel is on the grounds of the former Mother House of the Congregation of the Mission, which was ceded by the State of France in compensation to the former priory of Saint Lazare.

 

The medallions at the center of each window (one is shown at left) illustrate the life of St. Vincent.  These windows probably date to 1864, the same year that the organ was constructed.

 

The chapel is part of a complex of buildings (and the garden!) that serve as a seminary and world-wide reception area for the Lazaristes – missionaries scattered across the globe.  It also serves as a retirement center for the missionaries.

 

We plan to go out to eat with our dear landlord friends tonight.  That will be a great way to end this summer.  More later . . . .

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