Paris Journal 2008
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Sorry to miss you all yesterday. I had to do some research on a few people with whom we might do a real estate transaction, and it became an absorbing and time-consuming task. I did hear from one of you, Bob S., who claims Tuc crackers are too buttery to be like American crackers (see Wednesday’s entry). Well, Bob, how long has it been since you’ve had a Ritz cracker? They’re pretty buttery. Tom’s the cracker eater anyway, not me. He loves white bread, too, but today I bought another loaf of that tasty whole wheat pain de campagne at Champion. Yummm. Now that’s good bread. Again, it was still slightly warm to the touch when I found it. Lots of people like croissants. I think they are good, and I like to have maybe one or two a month, but that’s it. Croissants are way too buttery. Messy, too. Speaking of messy, we’ve had cool, damp weather for days now, and I love it. I just think about how hot and humid it is in September in southwest Florida, and any remnant of homesickness rapidly disappears into the cool mist of ancient Parisian streets. We’re also very happy with this apartment in this 1640s building. This place is comfortable and quiet. There is the occasional noise, but it doesn’t last. Yesterday, Tom was starting to get angry when we heard loud music coming from the apartment above us. It was late morning, and since it wasn’t party time, I decided to ignore it because it was probably just someone doing her aerobics. Besides, I was trying to focus on filling out real estate forms and I can’t do that while angry. I mentioned my aerobics theory to Tom. He calmed down. Fortunately, I was right. The music stopped after 30 to 45 minutes. There is no dishwasher in this apartment, which is quite typical, but for some reason, I don’t mind. In fact, I find myself enjoying washing the dishes. The kitchen sink is old and was installed for short little people. So I sit at a chair with my knees tucked beneath the old-fashioned ceramic sink, and I wash dishes at ease. The owners have cleverly installed open, coated-wire shelves over the sink, so the washed and rinsed dishes go right up there, and they’re ready to be used again. Very efficient. Cooking at the stove is interesting. The old, wide, arching range hood is still there. It was built probably in the 17th century when people were much shorter than I am. So when I cook, I tilt the upper half of my body to the side a little, and bend my knees slightly. This has the effect of keeping me from cooking too much. All in all, the kitchen (like the entire apartment) is very well-organized. The owners have thought of EVERYTHING. Clever, clever people they are. Night before last, we tried the new Relais de L’Entrecote on the boulevard Montparnasse. The French fries were superb, and the steak was tender but not particularly tasty or generous, and it was absolutely drowned in what they call a pepper sauce. I doubt that we’ll go back. Last night, we went over into the 7th arrondissement to Le Basilic and the food was good. Also, the service was warm and friendly. We finally got to see/hear another American couple in that place. I helped them by explaining that “medium rare” is a point (pronounced ah pwehn) in French. Many servers will tell you that a point is medium, but the real result, when it appears on your plate in front of you, if you order the meat to be cooked a point, is medium rare. We just define medium differently from the French. I think the French are right, and the Americans are wrong, but that’s the way it is. Tom had the house specialty, leg of lamb, served with white beans in a red sauce. It was good, but he prefers the softer beans that they served last time we were there. I had the recommended ravioli in cream sauce for a starter course, shared with Tom, and then the ray and spinach. The ray was very large (perhaps a small manta ray), just like the last time I ordered it, and it came with a lemon butter sauce and capers. It was good, but too much. I should not have had the starter course. This restaurant is beautiful, with its 1930s décor and idyllic setting. And the tables are not crowded together as they are in most restaurants in the 6th arrondissement. The manager is a very, very nice guy. The place is run entirely by men, and they do it well. The portions are man-sized, so beware when ordering. Happy Birthday to my Dad, Whit White!!! |
Friday, September 5, 2008
Old poster in Le Bistro du Septieme. Now, of course, it is illegal to smoke
inside restaurants.
Sculpture by Ossip Zadkine on the Seine. The birth year on this base is wrong;
Zadkine was really born in 1890.
The swamp with rebar at the Musée Branly. |
