Paris Journal 2012 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com
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After we returned from shopping at G20, I called an old favorite place, the Corsican restaurant called L’Abri Côtier, for a reservation. A man whose voice I did not recognize politely took my request. Done. The restaurant is on the boulevard du Montparnasse, a pleasant half-hour walk away. Pleasant, because most of the walk is in the park: first the Jardins du Luxembourg, and then the Jardin Cavelier de la Salle and the Marco Polo Jardin, both of which together are sometimes called the Square de l’Observatoire. The Luxembourg Gardens were buzzing with activity. The grand playground had just closed (at 7PM), so the energetic kids were scattered in the park, with their families, zig-zagging their way home to dinner, eventually. We decided to walk by the orchard in the southwest part of the park. The orchard is fenced off and visible, but not accessible to the public. Many of the fruit trees are espaliered on trellises, to maximize the use of the space. At this time of year, the apples, pears, and peaches are protected by individual paper sacks tied around each one, keeping the fruit safe from bugs and birds. The fruit is harvested and sent to the kitchens of the French Senate, then served in the Senate’s dining rooms. The weather has been so dry and so many feet were pounding the dirt paths, that we could see a slight haze of dust in the air. So when we exited the stately Luxembourg Gardens, we decided to walk on the paved sidewalk along the outside edge of the other two gardens, thus saving ourselves from some of the dust of the garden paths. But I’m not complaining about the weather; it is so pleasant that we did not need our lightweight jackets on the stroll before dinner; we’d only need them for the walk home later. As we passed by the Pharmacy college, we noticed a banner for a conference that was being conducted in English: “Pain and dysfunction: an update on decision-making.” That could have been a title for a Political Science conference, too, we decided. Or it could have been a conference at the world-renowned École Nationale d’Administration, the public administration school which is next door to the Pharmacy school. But no, I’m sure this was probably a conference about physical pain since it was on the Pharmacy college’s fence. Tout le monde was on the way to dinner. When we turned the corner on the boulevard, others walking near us were picking up speed, as if they were late for their dinner plans. We arrived at the restaurant only a couple minutes after our reservation time. Madame was waiting for us, anticipating our arrival. She smiled broadly when I walked through the door. She came right up to me, and as we shook hands she said she saw our name in the reservation book and recognized it. She was happy to see us, and we were happy to see her. She is very tan from vacation in Corsica. I don’t think she has aged at all in the years we’ve known her. She showed us to a nice table on the side, next to a big window with a view down the broad boulevard du Montparnasse. Before I start describing this dinner, I must say that L’Abri Côtier is a different sort of Corsican restaurant than L’Accent Corse, where we dined on August 27. I think part of the difference is that L’Accent Corse, on the rue de la Convention near the avenue Félix Faure, perhaps features the more southern Corsican cuisine. It is also dedicated to being as authentic as possible, right down to the folksy Corsican songs played on its sound system. L’Abri Côtier is more northern, I think, because I remember years ago Madame saying that her part of Corsica is near the spring where Orezzo sparking water is collected. That is in the north. But L’Abri Côtier also makes more accommodation for its location in Paris, and so some describe its cuisine as “French-Corsican.” The bottom line is, the cuisine at L’Abri Côtier is very refined; the cuisine at L’Accent Corse is more of a country-style, and probably more Corsican. I could not find anything on L’Abri Côtier’s menu that featured the Brocciu cheese, which some call the “Corsican national food.” That said, I must say that Tom and I have been appreciating the fine cuisine of L’Abri Côtier for years. Every time we dine there, it seems, the food is excellent, and the “rapport qualité/prix” is great (i.e., great value). A new server, a tall young woman, brought our menus and took our orders. I ordered the three-course 24.50-euro fixed-price menu so that we could share the appetizer and dessert included with it. Tom just ordered a main course, the rack of lamb. Portions are modest at L’Abri Côtier, which we like. (The exception is the excellent fish soup, which is an appetizer but its tureen is so large that consuming two more courses along with this soup would be very difficult.) Our appetizer was the feuillantines d’escargots crème persillade. The layers of pastry were flaky and buttery, and the escargots were soft and tender. The sauce was rich and light at the same time. Outstandingly good! Tom said the rack of lamb was delicious. It looked juicy and tender, and it was cooked just the way he likes it, a point. One side was encrusted with herbs and garlic. Some substantial, thick slices of roasted potatoes and a few veggies accompanied the lamb. My main course was called filet de dorade. It was really three narrow strips of dorade (sea bream), moist and perfectly grilled, and served with delicious, thinly sliced vegetables and a couple little steamed potatoes. Everything tasted fresh, and the attention to detail in every aspect of these dishes was amazing. The dessert that we shared was called a soufflé glacé au grand marnier, but really was a grand marnier-flavored sherbert, topped by some good whipped cream. With this superb dinner we had a large bottle of Orezza, the Corsican sparkling water, and some rosé wine. The total bill for all this? Only 58.50 euros, tax and tip included. The dinner was just the right amount quantity-wise, and the quality could not have been better. Service was excellent. Speaking of which, the server spoke good English. We noticed this because a couple of young Chinese women were seated near us. They were tourists who were taking great care about what they ordered, and they had lots of questions. They were relying on their English to communicate during their European travels, of course. The server was patient and skilled in explaining each unknown item and answering each question for these curious young women. As we were paying our tab, we complimented our server on her English. She said she had studied abroad briefly, but mainly, the reason for her competency is that her boyfriend is German, and he knows no French. The two of them communicate in English. Ah, the new Europe! We said our goodbyes to Madame and the server, and then were on our way home through the dark streets. I felt comfortable and safe enough, but Tom was a bit uneasy with the walk home via the rue d’Assas and rue Guynemer at night. He saw something in the faces of two young men who passed us, something that I did not see. Next time, we will take a longer route, staying on the more brightly lit and peopled boulevard Raspail and rue de Vaugirard. I noticed a couple young women walking alone, with their smartphones in their right hands. The smartphones were lit up, but the women were not looking at them. Instead, they each moved right along, walking at a brisk pace. I wonder if there is some sort of GPS-based “be safe” app which they were using, which would summon the cops at the touch of a button and simultaneously give their location? Maybe I will check into it. |
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Something
or someone made a hole in the netting on the Senate’s orchard in the
Luxembourg Gardens. One of the
protective paper sacks has been removed from a nice-looking ripe pear.
Feuillantines
d’escargots crème persillade at L’Abri Cotier.
The
filet de dorade.
Carré d’agneau, or rack of lamb.
Soufflé
glacé au grand marnier. |
