Paris Journal 2013 – Barbara Joy Cooley                  Home: barbarajoycooley.com

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We’d walked for almost an hour when we reached the Il Bisonte boutique on the rue du Cherche Midi.  I entered the shop and greeted the man and woman working there.  I explained that I was looking for a particular bag for a friend of mine.

 

This friend, Linda, has an Il Bisonte bag that she adores.  It is hand made, in black leather.  She wants one like it in a camel color.

 

I showed the man the photo of her black bag that I had on my cell phone.  He and the woman then proceeded to show me all the comparable handbags that they did have, but, the man explained, this particular style was from three years ago, and they do not have any more.

 

So I just took photos of the ones they have in the boutique that might appeal to Linda.  I emailed them to her this morning.  She has time to think about it because the boutique, like so many in Paris, is closed on Sunday and Monday.  Also, Linda will be here in Paris in September, so perhaps will want to see what she can buy at Il Bisonte then.  On va voir . . . .

 

With that mission accomplished, Tom and I left the boutique and made our way over to the Place Saint Sulpice.  The restored church towers are beautiful against a blue, blue sky.  The fountain in the square, all restored as well, is flowing with water, which is more than can be said of many fountains and other water features in Paris parks and squares this summer.

 

On we went to visit our friends Ron and Elisabeth.  It was great to have the time just to sit and converse for several hours.  We had some catching up to do!  Among other things, we talked about the neighbors in the building, and all the various things they’d been doing – just the things that matter to neighbors, that’s all.  For example, the actress who lives upstairs might buy the studio on the ground floor so she’ll have a place where she can go to memorize her lines, away from her noisy children.

 

We walked from Ron and Elisabeth’s apartments down the street a short distance to La Cuisine de Philippe, where we had an excellent dinner.  It was all great except that the soufflés that Tom and I ordered for dessert were not completely cooked, and the restaurant became very hot and stuffy by the time we were finishing dinner.

 

We were happy to see the restaurant fill up; Philippe is prospering.  We’d discovered his bistro shortly after it opened last summer, and told Ron and Elisabeth about it.   Last summer, Philippe was offering discounts on LaFourchette.com in order to promote his new place.  This year, he does not need LaFourchette at all, I guess.  We are so pleased about his success.

 

We all paid the check and then walked out to admire the 100-line Rimbaud poem on a wall on the rue de Ferou.  Ron and Elisabeth are working on a very special translation of the poem.

 

Then Ron wanted to show us where some Boy Scouts from the suburbs of Paris had recently damaged the glorious fountain in the Place Saint Sulpice.  The scouts climbed into the fountain and were roughhousing in both of its tiered basins.  One of the upper basin’s rim stones had been knocked off, and repositioned in such a way that the water now runs under it instead of over it. 

 

What a shame.  Ron and Elisabeth had tried to talk to the parents and scout leaders to get them to ask the boys to stop what they were doing.  But the adults replied that they didn’t care if they boys were damaging the fountain.   Wow.  That’s not the way scout troups that I know behave.

 

We talked about what to do.  Ron has photos of the miscreants, but we think the only way to use them is to obscure the faces.  Tom and I thought perhaps the best approach is to ask the responsible authorities to repair the fountain properly, following the damage inflicted by the Boy Scouts.

 

Asking for the Boy Scouts to be reprimanded or fined or whatever would probably not work, we thought.

 

You can only do so much when you’re an American living in Paris.  And that’s the situation in which our friends find themselves.

 

But here’s something we CAN do:

Americans in Paris are going to have their photo taken with the Statue of Liberty in the Luxembourg Gardens today so we can send it to President Obama for his birthday.  We’ll be there, along with some of our friends.

 

Meanwhile, our French friends François and Patricia and their four kids are vacationing in America – Fort Lauderdale, to be specific.  Patricia featured a photo of an ocean rescue vehicle on the beach on Facebook yesterday; that gave me some cause for concern, so I asked her about it in a comment.

 

No, the vehicle wasn’t there for them; it just looked so American to her, that she thought it would be a good photo.

 

I understand; CSI Miami reruns are very popular on French TV.  The voices are dubbed over, and sometimes, to my ear, the tonal qualities of the voices used don’t match the character.  The effect is strange.

 

Voices, voices, so many voices speaking English over in the 6th arrondissement!  It is not like that here in the 15th. 

 

We’ll be back over there later today, with plenty of opportunity to practice our English!

 

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Sunday, August 4, 2013

 

Place Saint Sulpice.

 

Italian leather handbag by Il Bisonte.

 

Shrimp salad (above) and Dorade Royale (below) at La Cuisine de Philippe on the rue Servandoni in the 6th arrondissement.

 

 

Rue Abel, as seen from the Promenade Plantée, seems like it would be a quiet and nice place to live in Paris.

 

 

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