Paris Journal 2009 – Barbara Joy Cooley                  Home: barbarajoycooley.com

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We’ve been customers at Oh! Duo for twelve years now.  The proprietors, Mr. & Mrs. Valero, never seem to tire of being in the restaurant business.  His food is always delicious and innovative.  Her reception is always warm and friendly.  Like many Parisians, she loves to complain about the weather.  Last night, we had fun disagreeing with her, saying that no, the weather is now perfect.

 

And it is.  Highs are in the 70s.  It rains a little bit here and there, which keeps everything clean and fresh in the city.

 

Because of the change in the weather, we moved to the bigger apartment in the 15th.  Well, we haven’t moved everything – just the essentials, like computers and a change of clothes, etc.  Later today, I suppose, we will move the rest of our things.  Tom’s son, Dan, and our daughter-in-law Mary, will arrive on Saturday, and they’ll stay in the apartment in the 6th, closer to all the things tourists love to see and do.

 

To commemorate the move, we strolled down the avenue Emile Zola to dine at the Valero’s resto.  On the way, we saw a touch of some of the finished work that comprises the big Beaugrenelle urban renewal project.  In so doing, we found a bank where we used to buy newspapers on Sundays at the Place Charles Michel – a busy intersection of five or six streets.. 

 

But just past that intersection, we found a newspaper shop that was about to close for the day.  The proprietor, a French man of Asian origin, was most welcoming and willing to sell us papers which he’d already bundled to give back to the distributer.  Many shopkeepers would not like this inconvenience, but he just was pleased to see us and to take a few of our euros.  So we bought our English and French newspapers, and made our way across the street to the restaurant.

 

In the spirit of the reduction of the TVA tax, the Valero’s lowered the prices on several items, including the two-course menu.  It was 27 euros, but now is 24. 

 

There is also an even less expensive, three-course menu at 21 euros, but you have no choices.  It is croustillant de chevre with its own little salad for a starter, poached salmon and puréed potatoes for the main course, and tarte aux pommes (apple tart) for the dessert.

 

That’s what Tom ordered.  Upon hearing that the starter of the day was a croustillant de foie gras with its own little salad, and seeing that rabbit was still on the main carte, I decided I would have to go with the 24-euro two-course dinner.

 

Our starter courses arrived looking very much the same, except that my croustillant was a tad larger and I had a bit more salad.

 

The salads served with the croustillants were delightful.  There was a bed of a few extremely thinly sliced apples on the bottom, topped with a perfect mix of delicate greens and a gentle but tasty vinaigrette.

 

The croustillants were envelopes of flaky, tasty pastry, not unlike the outside of the very best croissants, and inside mine, there was just the right amount of foie gras – slices of the real thing, not a paté. 

 

The rabbit was served in chunks that were a bit smaller than golf balls.  There were no bones.  The meat was so tasty – it’s like the best of white chicken breast but with more flavor, like the dark meat of a chicken.  It came with just a little bit of demi-glace.

 

Chef Valero knows how to properly and perfectly purée potatoes.  His are light and smooth, with not one little lump to be found.

 

Tom’s tarte aux pommes was perfect as always.  If you want a reliably good tarte aux pommes, this is your place.  But note:  the Valero’s go on vacation for the last week of July and first two weeks of August.  The restaurant will be closed then.

 

I wonder why I haven’t yet mentioned the Tour de France?  We’ve been watching it at the end of each day, not only because Lance is back, but because our friend’s nephew is racing with the Garmin team.

 

Our friend, Babe Vande Velde, used to race a little himself, we think.  His brother was the real competitive bicycle racer.  And now the brother’s son, Christian Vande Velde, is a leader on the Garmin team.

 

Babe’s great talent is playing the saxophone, plus being such an amiable and good guy.

 

Lance’s participation has added more suspense to the Tour.  Is he going to win?  When will he make his decisive move?  Will it be today?  Or will his ancient age of almost 38 get the better of him?  We watch, and wait.

 

The scenery is fantastic.  I just love all those helicopter views of charming French villages, medieval castles, grand chateaux, pleasant country churches, and great cathedrals.  Ah France.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

 

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Kids can ride ponies in the Luxembourg Gardens.

 

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An ultra-manicured flowerbed and hedge by the museum in the Luxembourg Gardens.

 

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The palm trees in the Luxembourg Gardens keep me from feeling homesick.

 

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Café in the Luxembourg Gardens.

 

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Bumble bees on flowers in the Luxembourg Gardens.

 

 

Note:  For addresses & phone numbers of restaurants in this journal, click here.

 

 

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