Paris Journal 2010 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com

Photos and thoughts about Paris

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We sat for four hours in the Luxembourg Gardens, listening to live jazz yesterday. The first group that we heard, Dixie Memory Band, was a subset of the second group, a big band called Puissance Jazz (Powerful Jazz), except for one funny old trombone player named Jean-Louis who was in the first group but not the second, and neither was the clarinet player. The Dixie Memory Band consisted of a tuba player (Yves Abiteboul), a banjo player, a clarinetist, a lead trumpet player (Pierre), a second trumpet player (Alain), an alto-saxophonist (Laurent Abiteboul), and Jean-Louis who also sang. Dixie Memory was good but not great. I had trouble sitting still listening to Jean-Louis try to play the trombone. He had the enthusiasm, but not the wind or control. However, when he sang, he was really good and thoroughly entertaining. I noticed that the lead trumpet, Pierre, and Yves on tuba seemed to be the best; quite talented. Dixie Memory Band performed Indiana, Royal Garden Blues, Angry (pronounced Ongry by the French), Ma Tante, C’est Si Bon, Jazz Me Blues, St. James Infirmary, some French song I didn’t get the name of, Roses of Picardie, I Can’t Give You Anything But Love, Sweet Georgia Brown, Bill Bailey, and Hold That Tiger. When Puissance Jazz big band was getting set up, I was surprised when Yves put on the band director’s jacket (cream colored), while the rest of them had bright blue blazers. Never underestimate a tuba player. The band’s web site tells me that Yves also plays vibraphone. He is a fabulous big band director. The web site also says the big band has 18 members; but there were 20 yesterday. The drummer was a little late in arriving, but the concert time had been moved up a half hour, and maybe he didn’t get the word on time. At any rate, the concert started a little late because, as we know all too well, it takes a lot of work to set up a drum set with all the various hardware. Puissance Jazz started off with a bang worthy of its name. The band was stunningly good. We thoroughly enjoyed the concert. They played Moten Swing, Bon Voyage, Bandstand Boogie, something I didn’t get the name of, Farewell, An Homage to Count Basie, Little Brown Jug, I Left My Heart In San Francisco, I’ve Got You Under My Skin, Hello Dolly, My Baby Just Cares For Me, Route 66, The Lady is a Tramp, a Latin number with the word Soleil at the end of its French title, a piece made famous by Duke Ellington and Woody Herman for which we couldn’t remember the name, and, the masterpiece, Sing Sing Sing. One of the horn players sang the orange songs above, with flawless American English. He must be American, or he spent much of his childhood there. The weak link in the band was the keyboard player, who unfortunately is even worse as a vocalist. She sang the two numbers in red/pink above. A trombone player named Stéphane came up front to sing the green songs in the list, and he was great. The drummer, Helmut Bundschuh, was excellent, but he could not get the beat right on the Latin number. The guitar player, Jacques Sicsic, who looked like he might be part or all Spanish, had a look of pain on his face during the Latin number. Oh, but did Helmut the drummer ever do a great job on Sing Sing Sing. He had lots of people on their feet. Laurent Abiteboul was great on the alto sax, and very entertaining to watch. He clearly was meant for this life of jazz. He does many of the compositions and arrangements for the big band. We came back to the apartment after the concerts, but we could not stay inside. We were too excited from the music. We went out again, walking up the boulevard to the rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, a fairly interesting shopping street. We sat on the terrace of the Café de Paris on the busy and charming little rue de Buci for a drink, then walked on up the rue Jacob which, for some reason I don’t fully understand, Tom finds to be very interesting. It was then nearing the dinner hour, so we went back down to the boulevard and decided to try to get into Brasserie Lipp, even though we did not have a reservation. It was early enough, and so that worked. We were given a wonderful round table by the window overlooking the boulevard and the Café Flore. We were not crowded, and I was just delighted with the spot. Brasserie Lipp is a bit expensive, but I decided that this would be an excellent place to have Andouillette AAAAA. First, though, I started with leeks in vinaigrette, which I shared with Tom. When I placed my order, the server stopped when I said Andouillette. He raised his eyebrows, looked directly at me, and said “Are you sure? You know Andouillette? It isn’t aiguillette, you know.” I assured him that I knew andouillette, that it is a country sausage, and that I’ve eaten it before. He looked so surprised. I then assured him that I also eat tête de veau from time to time. He then said, “Ah, so you are really French! You must have French blood flowing in your veins.” Just to satisfy him, I said “Peut etre” (perhaps), and smiled and shrugged my shoulders. I’ve been through this before, with the patronne of Le Caveau du Palais, where I’ve ordered Andouillette twice in the past and shocked her each time. Tom ordered a steak. The only wine offered by the glass was a Riesling, which I ordered. When the server left the table, Tom agreed that Brasserie Lipp is probably as good a place as any to have Andouillette AAAAA. The place seems to be somewhat German or Alsatian (e.g., only Riesling by the glass), and Tom says it is known for its charcuterie plate. Sausages. Brasserie Lipp specializes in them. The leeks were very good, and it was nice to have a healthy vegetable to consume because the only accompaniment with the Andouillette and steak was fries. The Andouillette arrived. It was the largest one I’ve had yet. I cut it open, and did not eat the casing because it is tough, especially after grilling. This is the fourth (or fifth?) time I’ve had Andouillette, and I’m learning about not eating the casing on certain kinds of sausage, like the wiesswurst we ate in Munich. And I only ate about four of the fries. The Andouillette was so large, and so heavy, that I just couldn’t eat anything more than that. But the Andouillette was excellent. Tom’s steak was a little chewy, and so I offered him some of my Andouillette. He had a bite, and said that yes, it is really good. But when I offered him more, he declined. I said that when certain foods seem to be really gross, but lots of French people like them, try those foods anyway. Don’t think so much about what they’re made from, but concentrate on the taste. When you concentrate on the taste, you can understand why these foods appeal to the French. I also think that this sort of food falls into the category of “the best revenge is living well.” For so many, many years, almost all French people were somewhat poor, poor, or very poor. The rich upper crust of society got the “good” meat from the animals, and the poor got what remained. But the French, being the clever and creative people that they are, at least when it comes to food, figured out how to make the remains into really good food. In case you’re wondering, the AAAAA that you often see following Andouillette on the menu stands for Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique. It is a mark of quality to look for. Don’t order it unless there is an AAAAA after Andouillette. Tom also noted, mildly surprised, that the Andouillette wasn’t spicy. I explained that French Andouillette is not spicy. There is a Cajun version, however, that is spicy. I’d have to say that the Andouillette I ate at Brasserie Lipp was the best I’ve had, but I’ve only eaten Andouillette about five times in my life. It just isn’t an everyday food. It is too heavy and rich for regular consumption, I think. Tom ate his fries and most of mine. So we didn’t have the ability to eat dessert. We paid the bill, and bade our farewells. The server will remember the American from Florida who speaks French and eats Andouillette. I am happy to represent my country and my state in this way! Sign my guestbook. View my guestbook. Note: For addresses & phone numbers of restaurants in this journal, click here.

Monday, September 13, 2010 The Dixie Memory Band plays Dixie, which the leader says is a “movement of New Orleans.” That’s not a complete or proper way to describe Dixie, but hey, at least they play it. Yves Abiteboul, tuba player, vibraphonist, and big band leader. Pierre, in the middle, was the musical leader of Dixie Memory. The Puissance Jazz big band attracted lots of kids to the stage. Future jazz patrons, I hope. Puissance Jazz getting ready to give a powerful performance. Goofy-looking guy in weird hat, kilt and lab coat joins Dixie Memory briefly onstage. I thought this jazz fan’s outfit was cute. ← Previous Next → And here’s the 2009 Paris Journal.