Paris Journal 2010 – Barbara Joy Cooley                        Home: barbarajoycooley.com

Photos and thoughts about Paris

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You’re going to see a little break in the Paris Journal after today because we go to the south of France to see our friend Sally-Jane tomorrow through Friday.  She’s staying in a friend’s house near Agen, which is between Bordeaux and Toulouse.  I’ll tell you all about the trip this weekend.

 

Tom had real work to do for his publisher in New York yesterday, so we didn’t get out until the evening.  We walked around and around and around in the beautiful Luxembourg Gardens.  This time of year, walking on the sidewalks along the streets during rush hour isn’t all that pleasant.  But the park is always pleasant.

 

The weather, still gorgeous, will not follow us to Agen, I’m afraid.

 

We ended our long pre-dinner walk through the park by going down the boulevard Montparnasse to find someplace still open and selling newspapers.  We did, at that busy corner that has some of the most fancy brasseries in the city, like La Dome.

 

Then we went back for a dinner at l’Abri Cotier, the Corsican restaurant that we adore.  Madame la Patronne adores us, too.

 

We were early, and very hungry.  She gave us a nice table.  I ordered the bargain 18 euro three-course dinner, and Tom ordered the most expensive non-lobster item on the menu, a steak with pepper sauce (19.50).

 

Madame doesn’t advertise it on the menu, but she does offer wine in pitchers, not just bottles.  It isn’t worth trying to order by the glass because she only charges 8 euros for the little pitcher, which isn’t all that little.  That’s not bad for Paris.

 

I had the fish soup with its rouille (garlic-saffron mayonnaise) and shredded cheese on the side.  I love that soup so much!  And there is always too much of it.  What is served is really enough for a family of four.

 

Tom wouldn’t eat the soup but he did snack on the rouille and croutons (plus some of the cheese) that came with my soup.

 

My main course was a navarin d’agneau.  I’d forgotten what a navarin was, and so had to ask Madame.  The dish was a few pieces of slow-cooked lamb, so tender it falls apart, in a savory dark sauce that had a tomato base.  A few little veggies were scattered on the edge of the plate, but I didn’t really need those because I ate a pile of raw Romanesco pieces at mid-day.

 

Tom’s steak was a little chewy, but very good.  I also gave him some of my lamb.

 

For the dessert that is included in the 18-euro fixed-price menu, I ordered a baba rhum and Tom ate it, for the most part.  This is the best baba rhum we’ve consumed in Paris.  Really, really good.

 

We took our time saying goodbye to Madame because it will probably be the last time we see her his year.

 

The summer is coming to an end.

 

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Note:  For addresses & phone numbers of restaurants in this journal, click here.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

 

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Dahlias in the garden around the Luxembourg Gardens working greenhouses.

 

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And here’s the 2009 Paris Journal.